Methow Trails 2016-2017 Magazine

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14 | Methow Trails
My forearms are pumped. My fingers crimp a dime-size edge while I press up higher
on a sloping foot hold. I look down at my feet, hoping the rubber sticks and see 60 feet
of air below my heels. My heart rate rises and my breathing quickens, but my mind be-
comes totally focused. I am in a virtual Zen state of meditation without any extraneous
thoughts entering my mind as I reach for the next hand hold.
The Methow Valley is a true destination for rock climbers. You would be hard pressed
to find a more complete offering of climbing options anywhere in North America.
From single-rope-length bolted sport climbs on the valley floor, to multi-pitch bolted
moderates on the Goat Wall, to the world-class traditional alpine climbing routes on
Washington Pass, the Methow Valley has something for everyone.
Climbers began visiting the Methow back in the 1920s with ascents of Silver Star and
other high peaks in the area. But it was Fred Beckey who put the Methow Valley on
the radar for climbers. Long before the North Cascades Highway was constructed,
Fred and various partners would hike up from the Twisp River Road to climb Liberty
Bell and the Early Winter Spires that pierce the North Cascades’ skyline. His route up
Liberty Bell in the 1930s is still a trade route for aspiring alpinists with dozens of par-
ties ascending the route each weekend. Washington Pass is a mecca for alpine climbers
with hundreds of routes within a 2-hour walk from Highway 20.
But the modern age of climbing came to the Methow Valley in the 80s largely thanks to
the vision and hard work of Bryan Burdo. Missy LeDuc, owner of the Mazama Store,
has been quoted as saying the success of her business is largely thanks to Bryan’s efforts
in developing the climbs at Fun Rock and the Goat Wall. Climbers of all abilities from
all over the country flock to Mazama for the hundreds of sport climbs that are within
a few minutes’ walk of the parking lot. Prime Rib, the 11-pitch 5.9 on the Goat Wall,
is possibly the most popular multi-pitch route in Washington – a bucket list route for
climbers.
We are now in the 4th decade of Burdo’s efforts and he continues to develop new crags
like The Matrix near Goat Creek as well as dozens of new crags from the Chewuch to
Washington Pass. His latest project will open in the spring of 2017 and will offer a
17-pitch 5.9 route up the Goat Wall, the first new route on that wall in over 15 years.
Visitors who want to try climbing for the first time and those with lofty objectives are
well served by North Cascades Mountain Guides. NCMG is based out of Mazama
and offers packages for everything from family climbing days at Fun Rock to climbing
Prime Rib and Liberty Bell. Visit for more information.
The Goat’s Beard Mountain Supplies in Mazama is the focal point for climbing in
the Valley. They carry a complete selection of climbing equipment, shoes, clothing,
guide books, and information for the visiting climber. The Goat’s Beard is next to the
Mazama Store (and their famous sea salt baguettes). Visit www.goatsbeardmountain-
or call 509-996-2515 for more information.
The best climbing guide books covering the Methow Valley include Mazama Rock by
Bryan Burdo, Washington Pass Climbing by IanNicholson, and Cascade Rock by Blake
Herrington.
As my fingertips grasp the positive hold, I exhale and feel the tremendous sense of
relief and accomplishment that comes with getting to the top of a climb. The physical
effort combined with mind and body control creates a rare sense of elation. But be
careful, climbing is addictive.
Climbing Higher in
the Methow Valley
By CB Thomas